The Russian Side of Helsinki

A solid carpet of blinding white ice reflects the January sun surrounding the harbor of Helsinki as our Viking ferry crunches its way into port. Out come the gloves and heavy wool cap with earflaps to ward off the bitter chill wind. Memories of the film “Dr. Zhivago” come flooding back stepping onto land in heavy boots and seeing the unusual architecture associated more with Moscow than Scandinavia.

Helsinki, Finland gives visitors a glimpse of a slightly different twist to the Nordic culture. Unlike its neighbors Sweden, Norway, and Denmark, Finland derives much of its influence from Russia, which lies just 683 miles (1100 kilometers) to the east.

The Russian touch can be seen as soon as you step off the boat and look up the hill to the striking brownish-red Cathedral of the Assumption overlooking the harbor. In winter, the climb up the staircase can be a bit treacherous with the ice and snow, but the view inside is worth the risk. Beautiful ornate gold decorates the alter, and the church provides a cozy respite from the cold outside.

Down to the Market Square area, there is a scattering of shops selling candies and teas native to Russia. But probably Finland’s best tribute to its eastern neighbor is the selection of authentic restaurants, which offer some of the best Russian cuisine in Europe.

Alexander Nevski’s Russian restaurant on Market Square was a personal favorite for years whenever I had a business trip to Helsinki. Sadly, the establishment is long gone, but it still ranks among the best meals I’ve ever tasted. Named for the 13^th Century general and Prince of Kiev, the restaurant’s interior included green-wood paneling, pink velvet drapes, and delicate candlelight. The restaurant overflowed with old-world ambiance and the elegant surroundings transport visitors into a quiet St. Petersberg manor. And the food? Let’s just say it transported – period. With specialties such as reindeer medallions, borscht, and caviar blintzes, it is no wonder the restaurant was considered one of the hallmarks of Finland’s dining establishments. Personally, not a fan of beets, the main ingredient in Borscht, I decided to give the soup a try anyway, and it quickly became a favorite. Rich with beef stock and a dollop of sour cream, the blood red soup whetted the appetite for the entrée. Nevski specialized in seasonal game, and in winter reindeer was a popular choice. The succulent medallions melt in the mouth and the flavor is best enjoyed with a hearty red wine. The restaurant had an extensive wine list, which added a satisfying (but pricey) warmth against the cold outside. Desserts at Nevski were not to be missed. On my last visit, I sampled a beautiful presentation of cheese mousse with red currants resting on a delicate wafer of gingerbread crust. Light, and heavenly delicious. I feel the loss of Nevski every time I return to Helsinki, but I have been able to find some worthy alternatives. A recent meal at Troikka brought back all the feeling of old-world Russia and scrumptious fare in a cozy atmosphere (https://troikka.fi/). Other popular choices include Saslik (https://www.ravintolasaslik.fi), and BLINIt (https://www.blinit.fi/en/).

While I’ve only visited this unique city in mid-winter – which adds to its other-worldly feel – the warmer months offer never ending days and midnight sun. The beautiful forests and lakes of the Finnish landscape provide a memorable visit no matter the time of year.