Ireland holds a special place in my heart as I come from Irish ancestry. I’ve been fortunate to visit Dublin several times for my job, and also had the opportunity to kiss the Blarney Stone and tour the city of Cork. A year ago, I ventured further into the Emerald Isle to discover the Cliffs of Moher and my love of the country was solidified on this memorable excursion.
Having grown up in the Southern United States, navigating trains is something I’ve had to learn since moving to Europe. Organizing a full itinerary from Dublin to Ireland’s west coast was somewhat daunting at first. But thanks to the internet and a reliable transportation system, the trip went without a hitch.
My travel buddy and I flew into Dublin and spent the first night touring some favorite haunts, including Gogarty’s in Temple Bar (https://www.gogartys.ie/). This iconic spot is a combination restaurant, pub and music hall which also offers hostel or apartment accommodations. The traditional Irish food is delicious and hearty (we had oysters for a starter and then some amazing ‘coddle’ – sausage and potato stew). We capped off the meal with an evening of local music and a tall Guinness for the full ‘Dublin experience’. There are many cozy bed and breakfasts and traditional hotels scattered across the city including the Jurys Inn Christchurch (https://www.jurysinns.com), the Beresford Hotel (www.beresfordhotelifsc.com/en/), just a few minutes walk from O’Connell Street, and The Charles Stewart Guesthouse (https://www.charlesstewart.ie/), all offering comfortable rooms within a short distance of the major sites. The locals always offer a warm and friendly reception and we enjoyed a pleasant evening before trekking out into the unknown.
Early the next morning, we caught the tram (so easy!) to Heuston Station, and before long were zipping along toward Ennis. past lovely green hills, through scattered rainstorms and rainbows. We stopped off for lunch in Limerick, which I’ve noted as a ‘must come back and stay longer’ destination. Navigating the trains was a snap, and I was pleased to see that with a little research, finding our way was incredibly smooth and simple. Once we arrived in Ennis, a bus took us out to the west coast and the town of Lahinch. This tiny hamlet is a great destination for surfers and golf enthusiasts, and my friend and I enjoyed a warm welcome. Upon our arrival, we took a wrong turn and ended up at the incorrect hotel. In typical Irish fashion, one of the staff not only gave us directions, but offered us a ride to our hotel a short five minute drive away. The Lahinch Coast Hotel (https://www.lahinchcoasthotel.ie/) was ideally located just off the main street and a quick walk to the lovely promenade along the rocky coastline. The rooms were cozy and the restaurant offered a full breakfast. Pro-shops, gift stores, restaurants, pubs, and surf shops dot the streets and we relished every moment in this wonderful find. After a warm meal at The Cornerstone Bar, to stave off the brisk weather, we watched the sun set and incoming tide as the waves crashed against the coastline. It made for a dramatic and memorable experience. A traditional Irish coffee at the hotel bar drew the evening to a relaxing end.
We’d planned to visit the Cliffs of Moher the following morning. Unfortunately, the earliest bus service didn’t leave until close to Noon and we hadn’t booked a tour. Hoping to get an early start, we decided to venture out on foot. This proved to be a bad move, as the distance was much further than we’d been told (apparently the Irish are notorious for unintentional miscalculations of distance), and the September skies began to threaten rain. Just when we were on the point of giving up, a passing truck caught sight of us and offered a ride. I’ve never hitch-hiked in my life, but I decided it was safe enough in the Irish countryside. Our driver was another friendly local who brought us out of his way right to the entrance to the Cliffs and even declined our offer of gas (petrol) money. We thanked him and he went his merry way.
The famous Cliffs of Moher (https://www.cliffsofmoher.ie/) gave us a dramatic adventure, made more so by some almost hurricane-force winds whipping across the bluffs. We ventured from the Visitors’ Centre up the paved walkway out for an amazing view of the coastline. The brutal gusts tore off hats – even ski caps and made the visit more than a little unnerving. But the majesty of the coastal view was awe-inspiring. I was pleased we had a clear view, as some other friends who visited in years past said the heavy fog obscured the vista completely. After braving the frigid elements, we had a hot drink inside one of the cafes and toured the Centre’s exhibits.
A convenient bus trip brought us back to Lahinch for lunch before catching our connection back to Ennis. The village of Ennis is made up of a small city center filled with shops, pubs and churches and we enjoyed a relaxing meal on O’Connell Street in Brogan’s restaurant (https://www.brogansbarennis.com/) which was granted a James Joyce Pub Award. We stayed at The Auburn Lodge, just outside of town (https://www.auburnlodge.com/), which was pleasant and quiet.
An early train brought us safely back to Dublin the next day and we enjoyed a final night in the city before our return to Amsterdam. I was thoroughly emboldened by this road trip and determined to embrace more of the ‘do it yourself’ explorations in the future. With some Irish luck it won’t be long before I’m blessed with a return visit to this charming corner of the world and the pot of gold that awaits the avid travelers.
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