“N’Awlins” to the Locals

I always shake my head when friends tell me they visited the city of New Orleans (‘N’Awlins’ to the locals) and only saw the French Quarter. While this charming pocket remains a major draw and boasts some of the most colorful aspects of the Big Easy, there is so much more to be seen in this unique destination. Uptown New Orleans and the famous Garden District, a short ride on the iconic streetcar, is a sight not to be missed. The age-old oak trees dripping with Spanish moss, the smell of honeysuckle and the sultry romantic view of Audubon Park and the majestic mansions lining the street give the city much of its character. New Orleans has walkable areas, but it is quite spread out and the public transportation leaves something to be desired. Renting a car to get a fuller appreciation of the city and outlying areas would be my recommendation. I would mention that New Orleans drivers are in a class all by themselves, so make sure not to accelerate into an intersection as soon as the light turns green. Locals allow a few seconds for the stragglers.

My mother and grandparents lived in New Orleans for years until they picked up and moved to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, a short 76 miles (an hour and a half drive) east. Growing up, my family and I always considered the city a second home, attending Mardi Gras and the famous Jazz and Heritage Festival over the years. I even graduated college from Loyola University along the beautiful St. Charles Avenue (no relation). There are some wonderful and characteristic neighborhoods, including the stretch of Magazine Street, lined with some of the best eateries in the city and some truly unique shops.

City Park and the Museum are definitely worth a visit. The shady picnic grounds and the charm of Storybook Land still make me nostalgic for my childhood and visiting with my parents. Parkway Bakery & Tavern has been serving up some delicious po-boys since 1911, in a relaxed and pleasant terrace, rife with a lot of old time memorabilia from Pontchartrain Beach amusement park, Mardi Gras and the Jazz and Heritage Festivals (https://parkwaypoorboys.com). Another great uptown eatery is Frankie and Johnny’s (http://frankieandjohnnys.net/, a friendly, laid-back neighborhood restaurant with great food and a lot of character.

The best time of year to visit is spring – March and April – before the heat and humidity of summertime really kick in. The early autumn – September and October – is also lovely. And while the winter months can be a bit gray and depressing the holiday period in the city, including Christmas in the Oaks, is certainly worth a visit.

One of my favorite drives outside the city is Highway 90, which connects the city to the Gulf Coast via winding, picturesque roads through unique fishing camps – with names like ‘Kissin’ and Fishin’, ‘Anything Goes’ and other creative monikers – boat shops, swamp tours and small establishments selling fresh seafood and bait. Too many visitors use the I-10 interstate and miss out on this marvelous aspect of the local culture. But if time allows, the journey is worth the detour.