Medieval Holiday

Travelers looking for a trip back in time to the days of chivalry, castles, druids and dragons need look no further than a jaunt across the pond to the charming city of Cardiff, Wales. Nestled in the Western coast of the United Kingdom along Cardiff Bay, Wales offers a friendly, medieval quaintness that will have first-time visitors drawn back again and again.

I first traveled to Cardiff in late April, which is an ideal season to see the first blossoms on the flowering trees. The coast does get a fair bit of wind at that time of year, but ample sunshine as well. Arriving in the city of Cardiff, one finds immediate warmth from the Welsh people. During the short trip from the airport into town, the taxi driver from the airport related some interesting history about the capital city of Cardiff, which was founded on the wealth of coal mining. Tours are available outside the city to a working coal mine, where visitors dress in hardhats and collier uniforms for the duration of the tour.

Cardiff is a mix of the old and new, the latter exemplified by the Millenium Stadium, a modern football arena built in 1999, and already a major landmark. While dominated by a distinctive flavor of medieval history, the city maintains the modern ambience of a bustling world-class city.

I stayed at the 2-star Ibis hotel, which offers the very basic comforts, ideally located walking distance to the main shopping street, and all the main attractions. However, there are a number of quaint hotels and bed and breakfasts to stay at in Cardiff for various prices, including the 4-star Copthorne Hotel (£83), the Thistle (also 4-stars; from £45), or the Jurys Hotel (£35 and £70).

Those visiting Cardiff for the first time may wish to take advantage of the double-decker bus tours, which pick up in front of the castle. A great way to see the sites, and get your bearings; the bus provides drop-offs anywhere throughout the tour, or just stay put, and you’ll be right back downtown when the tour finishes. Our tour guide was a quite interesting, colorful character who add a lot of background and interesting anecdotes about the city with a touch of humor.

Cardiff Castle sits in the very heart of the downtown district and is surrounded by a low wall, adorned with sculpted animal figures of squirrels, bears, lions and wolves. Adjacent to the castle, Sophia Gardens provide a relaxing and lush accompaniment to the castle’s imposing structure. A must-see attraction, the castle was originally built as a fort by the Romans in the first century A.D. However, the structure has been renovated and added to over the years, passing through various generations of owners, including a long line of British Lords and Marques. The clock tower, built in the 1800s, has a distinctively modern structure and colorful artwork. The interior of the living quarters — which were restored by, among others, collier heir, Lord Bute and architect, William Burges – are sure to impress. The gentleman’s smoking room, the bed chamber, and the great hall, are all so intricately designed that one could spend hours following the stories mapped out by the detailed carvings and flamboyant paintings on the walls, ceilings, and corner nooks. In the smoking room, each of the four corners represents one of the four seasons with brightly painted carvings fitting in to the overall theme. Since women were not encouraged to enter, the artists carved a gargoyle over the main door to the room to keep them at bay. Colorful fairy-tale illustrations cover the walls of the children’s nursery, including the most popular painting of the “Invisible Prince.”

Outside the main halls, the view from the 11^th century castle “keep” is worth the trek up the stairs, although it can prove a bit treacherous and steep.

Other impressive collections of artistic note can be found at the National Museum and Gallery of Wales, which houses a fine collection of impressionist paintings and historical findings unique to the country.

After a tour of the city, several nice friendly pubs invite passersby to have a pint of beer or enjoy a plate of steak and kidney pie. The service in all those I visited was fine, although there is a specific procedure to follow in being seated and served. Choose a table, get the number, place the order at the main counter, then go to a separate end of the bar to request beverages. Once you master this, it’s nice to relax and take in the atmosphere.

Shopping in Cardiff offers a pleasant and very different diversion. Numerous stores sell plush, t-shirts, and other souvenirs with a red dragon, the symbol of the city, emblazoned across the front. Most of the tourist shops also hawk medieval and Celtic charms and jewelry. Typical to Wales, the wooden “love spoons”, date back to the days of yore. The giving of “love spoons” is an old tradition in Wales, and the symbols carved into the handle signify different wishes – love, friendship, good luck in marriage, etc.

Venturing outside of Cardiff, visitors should definitely take time to visit the Museum of Welsh Life in the village of Saint Fagans. An open-air museum, opened in 1948, the 100-acre property chronicles life through the ages of Wales. Everything from a small druid village with huts and wood-burning fire, to a 16^th century manor house with sprawling grounds spotted with sculptures, beds of flowers and a babbling brook. Small cottages dot the grounds –one for the blacksmith, another for the baker, the sheep-shearer, and the fisherman — all preserved in a lush, verdant stretch of land. A quaint shoppe sells tea and cakes, and a general store offers gifts and locally made Welsh goods, including Mead wine. Geese waddle around the property, and there are horse-drawn carriage rides available, very popular with children. St. Fagans is easily accessible; approximately 15-minutes by bus from Cardiff’s main station.

A weekend in Cardiff captures a taste of its charm, but there is much more to see in the outlaying areas of Wales as well – all offering a wealth of history, beauty, and excitement.