Step right into the pages of a storybook village for a truly memorable mountain adventure! Nestled in the Alps, about two hours from Zurich, Switzerland, lies the quiet village of Sargans. Just on the border of the duchy of Liechtenstein – literally a stone’s throw away – Sargans encompasses a charming cluster of houses, hotels, restaurants, and even its own castle. Anyone lucky enough to discover this tiny slice of “Heidi-land” — as it is called thanks to author Johanna Spyri — will never forget the experience.
I stumbled on Sargans quite by accident, while looking for the best route to Liechtenstein. Having lived in Europe for the past seven years, I was searching the map for a nice summer weekend getaway to someplace I’d never been before. Paris – done it. Spain – nice, but too crowded in August. Liechtenstein….never been there, but heard it’s pretty. It turns out Liechtenstein – often overlooked – is not even a real country, but simply a “duchy” or dukedom with its own government. Perched right between Switzerland and Austria, the locale promised to be a very picturesque place. But how does one get there? Upon phoning the train information, I soon learned that Liechtenstein does not even have its own station. The woman advised that, to visit Liechtenstein, there are bus transfers from either Switzerland or Austria. She mentioned Sargans as the nearest Swiss town on the border – never heard of it before, but Sargans had a hotel, so that settled that!
A few days later, the train to Sargans raced from Amsterdam through Germany and, after a very long day, into Switzerland and the Alps. Once the journey began into the mountains, the scenery became almost surreal. The two hour train trip from Zurich to Sargans will undoubtedly have visitors pressing both nose and camera to the window glass in astonishment that such a beautiful place exists. Small lakeside towns of Wadenswil and Pfaffikan yield to a vision of Alpine majesty. Awesome, snow-capped mountains reach into the sky, skirted by a pristine lake of the deepest blue-green hue imaginable. Each bend of the rails presents an even richer and more lovely vista of this incredible pocket of Europe’s heart.
The trains stop directly in Sargans, which is a tiny place. Its few hotels stand literally a five-minute walk from the station, as does the rest of the village — made up of a few small restaurants, shops, and hotels. The 3-star Post Hotel, includes a full breakfast and the very basic amenities for a weekend stay. The downstairs restaurant offers a nice selection of Continental dishes and wines.
Venturing out for Liechtenstein, it is the easiest journey possible. Just re-pace the five-minute trot back to the train / bus station. Clearly marked buses for Vaduz wait right in front of the station, and the trip takes only about 15 minutes. In that time, most of the dukedom of Liechtenstein is laid out just beyond the bus window. A sovereign state since 1806, the area is home to a mere 33,000 inhabitants. One could probably walk the entire territory in less than a day!
Vaduz is a charming little town, with cafes, shops, and a castle, still inhabited by its duke, overlooking the collection of houses set against a spectacular view of the mountains. Venturing up to the castle is worth the trek through the woods, along the narrow footpaths, just for the scenery. Although the castle grounds are closed to tourists, the surroundings will make visitors feel as if they’ve stepped into “The Sound of Music”.
Vaduz boasts a very impressive modern art museum, which includes some truly avant-garde exhibits. There are also several pleasant restaurants and coffee shops, and stores selling collectibles and art. The dukedom uses Swiss currency, which gives an idea of just how small the territory is.
Hop back on the bus for a visit to another small town in the area – Balzers. This spot on the map does not really even qualify as a town it is so tiny. However, Balzers includes a lovely church and castle of its own, set atop a small mountain with vineyards scattered along the hillside. A truly glowing view of the countryside from one of the scenic spots overlooking the village awaits those who hike up to the top.
Back to Sargans before nightfall, why not treat yourself to a memorable dinner? There are a smattering of restaurants in the town, but by following the small path up to the Schloss Sargans, visitors may be pleasantly surprised to find that, in addition to housing an impressive museum, the castle has its own restaurant. So, spend a romantic evening dining on Cordon Bleu and red wine in the 13th century castle, and overlooking the Alpine valley as the sun sets over the mountains. Waitresses dressed as country lasses, a group of troubadours playing courtly serenades, and even a gaily-clad court jester, contribute to the atmosphere of the evening. The dinner can be a perfect ending to a storybook weekend.
Sidebar: Getting to Sargans – Easier than you think!
For anyone coming in from overseas, flying directly to Zurich and taking a train is highly recommended. Most major airlines fly into Zurich from overseas and all over Europe.
Longer train rides to Switzerland and Austria from Germany or The Netherlands prove extremely long and often dull. Unless you have a lot of time, it is not worth a full day on the train.
Traveling in August, be advised that this is high travel season in Europe, so book a room ahead of time.
In addition to Sargans, there are many small towns bordering Lake Zurich just outside the city, and all have magnificent views and access to swimming along the banks. If you have the time, it is certainly worth visiting any of these picturesque spots, most offering small hotels near the train stations.
While Sargans and Liechtenstein are both very small territories, their web-sites are extremely helpful in planning a trip, as are the tourism boards for Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Try any of the following:
www.sargans.ch (in German only)
http:// llvweb.Liechtenstein.li
Most of the hotels listed are small and affordable, and can be booked directly online.
While Sargans is not a metropolitan center, the restaurants serve some delicious fare, and the service at the hotels is more than adequate. The biggest complaint to this traveler was that, in August, while the temperature was mild, the mosquitoes were horrendous. Keep this in mind also if you plan to visit in the summer, and bring along some repellant!
Also, it’s a wise idea to purchase a language guide if you are not fluent in German. Because of its location, the area does not have many English speakers, so communication can be a problem. All menus are in the local language, so it’s good to know a few words in order to get by.
The restaurant at the Schloss Sargans is small and intimate, so tables fill up quickly. Reservations are recommended to assure your spot! Take the time to visit the Sarganserland Museum in the castle as well – in 1987, it was voted one of the 37 museums most worth visiting in Switzerland.
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